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squabbled with each other for flamingo drives, kayaking rarely spoken, the rain fell in relentless sheets,
their share of our attention. and oyster foraging in the and a thick layer of red dirt seemed to cling to
South Africa, at the tip of the shallow lagoons. Namibia’s everything, giving the landscape a raw, elemental
continent, has it all: Modern true star attraction, however, quality.
lifestyle, historic British- is its vast expanse of golden I fell in love with Gambia. Once colonized by
colonial charm, the Cape Town desert dunes, stretching from the British and independent since 1965, it is a
harbor dotted with outstanding the Atlantic coast toward place where Muslims and Christians live side by
restaurants, hotels and shops, infinity and promising side in easy harmony. The air carries a fine dust,
natural wonders, colorful untamed adventure. Highly the streets hum with activity, and sleek Mercedes
neighborhoods, wild ocean vistas, trained drivers bundled share the road with donkey carts. Concrete
world-class golf and wildlife. us into Range Rovers and buildings, mid-rise malls, apartment blocks, and
We stayed at my favorite hotel launched us along the wild lively nightclubs create a cityscape that feels
for sophisticated old-world glamour, the shoreline, then straight up and over the both industrious and evolving. Men dress in blue
Belmond Mt. Nelson, and explored the towering dunes for an adrenaline-charged jeans, T-shirts, and Chicago White Sox caps,
city via Cape Sidecar Tours, a motorcycle ride that felt like a desert roller coaster. We while women dazzle in brilliantly colored African
adventure through city neighborhoods, up the climbed razorback ridges, skimmed sandy printed dresses and head wraps.
coastal highway. peaks, plunged into shadowed valleys, and One of my most memorable experiences
The winelands of Stellenbosch, marveled at the drivers’ uncanny navigational was joining a home cooking class hosted by
Franschhoek and Paarl are 90 minutes skills—silently hoping they could, in fact, find an ambitious local entrepreneur educated in
from Cape Town and produce world-class our way back out. By day’s end, my fellow England and experienced in the hospitality
Chardonnays, Cabs, and their local varietal, travelers and I agreed—this experience was an industry. We wore beautiful African dresses sewn
Pinotage. We tasted our way through absolute must for any African adventure. by her sister and prepared a meal together in her
Meerlust, Rupert & Rothschilds, Delaire Continuing up Africa’s west coast from outdoor kitchen, using fresh shallots, tomatoes,
Graff and Babylonstoren before heading out Namibia, we arrived in Angola—a nation peppers, peanuts, fish and chicken. After savoring
on safari. shaped by its Portuguese heritage and our meal together, she taught us Mancala, a
The heart and soul of South Africa is unexpectedly defined by a skyline of coastal traditional African table game. That special
the wildlife, which is best experienced on high-rises. Not a pretty city by any means, afternoon remains one of my most cherished
a guided safari. Kruger National Park in we were surprised to learn that Angola is travel memories.
northeastern South Africa is one of Africa’s the richest of African nations, with oil and Further up the coast, Senegal bears the imprint
largest game reserves. Its high density of wild diamonds leading the economy. DeBeers has of its French influence, yet its bustling street
animals includes the Big 5: lions, leopards, a strong presence here along with Sonangol markets pulse with raw, unfiltered energy—
rhinos, elephants and buffalos. However Petrol which partners with Chevron. China dense with labor, heat, noise, and urgency. The
there are multiple private conservancies has had a presence here for 100 years and atmosphere is intense and visceral, a sensory
that offer heart - pumping encounters with is currently investing in the restoration of overload that feels worlds away from anything
lions, cheetah, giraffe, hyena, warthogs, water historic buildings and satellite infrastructure. polished or restrained. Beyond the city’s frenzy,
buffalo, zebra and hippo. We indulged in four China, it was noted, has a significant presence we visited a rural village where the tribal chief
days of safari drives, which is never enough. in “research and development” in every one welcomed us into his humble stick hut. We were
From South Africa, we traveled up of these African nations. Are you paying greeted by his six wives and dozens of children,
the western coast of Africa to Namibia—a attention? all who were lazily camped out on a mattress in
destination that surprised me more than any Further up the coast from Angola is the shade of the sand courtyard. The experience
other. Once settled by Germans who claimed Ghana, settled by the Dutch and British and offered a striking glimpse into a way of life far
the mineral-rich coastline for diamond now considered the most peaceful of African removed from modern conveniences.
mining, the orderly, European architecture Nations, according to them. The red dirt Unlike some places where joy seems to spill
of Walvis Bay hints at those origins. The streets of Ghana are a carnival of chaos, where easily into the streets, the mood in Senegal
local entrepreneurs we encountered, many donkey carts, ox-driven flatbeds, rickshaws, felt sad and complex, reminding me that every
of European descent, had established and foot traffic compete for space. Pedestrian country carries its own emotional landscape
boutique gin distilleries that welcome visitors merchants sell windshield wipers, produce shaped by history and circumstance. Before
for curated and famously imaginative hand-carved departing, I purchased shell jewelry and hand-
tastings and fantasy coffins. Women weave between the painted bracelets crafted from recycled rubber,
tours. These chaos balancing antique sewing machines, hoping my small contribution would help
experiences eggs and plastic buckets of soda on their support the village families and honor the
often extend heads. Baboon families occupy the shoulders artisans’ work.
beyond the of paved country roads and camels loiter on My experiences in Africa were both
distillery, construction sites. spellbinding and deeply eye-opening, offering
pairing craft From Ghana, we continued to a powerful glimpse into lives and realities far
spirits with Côte d’Ivoire—The Ivory Coast—a sovereign different from my own. They deepened my
unforgettable nation rather than a geographic region. My gratitude for the opportunities and freedoms
coastal strongest impression was how distinctly I have known, and reminded me never to take
adventures— strong the French influence is. English was them for granted.

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