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overlooking the city, where the local mezcal. We learned paper mache puppets for which San Miguel is
staff spoiled us with attention. that, while all tequila is widely recognized. You may have seen images
They wrapped us in Mexican technically mezcal, not all of these gigantic paper mache puppets being
blankets, held umbrellas over mezcal is tequila. Traditional paraded through Mexican streets on holidays
our heads, and as the sun broke mezcal originates from this and celebrations. Using a photo of us, he made
through the clouds and cast sepia region and therefore, you custom paper mache dolls in our likeness and
toned shadows over the city, Stacy won’t find choices for tequila together, we painted and decorated them. The
licked on a “Pornstar Martini” as much as choices of mezcal intimate class with Hermes Arroyo and our
and I indulged in a signature in San Miguel. We found it souvenir Mojiganges were truly a highlight.
margarita. to be smooth and palatable. Don’t miss it!
On our first morning in Our server graciously Sunday evenings in San Miguel are especially
Mexico, we indulged in a lavish offered our drinks “With magic. I recommend walking through town to
gourmet breakfast—farm fresh eggs, local crickets or without?” Perplexed, we dove into the Cathedral of Arc Angel San Miguel for
salsas, guacamole, warm tortillas, homemade the question further. Apparently, in this part the evening prayer service of the rosary. Even
granola and vibrant seasonal fruit—before of the country, mezcal is never served on its without a rosary or religion, one will enjoy
setting off on a private guided walking tour own, it is paired with crickets. Our choice experiencing something so authentic and holy in
of the city. San Miguel was originally home was chili grasshoppers or straight up fried. the iconic, neo-Gothic pink stone 17th century
to the Chichimeca Indians and, in 1542, was We daringly chose both and washed down cathedral. Following the evening prayer service,
formally established as San Miguel el Grande. warm crisp grasshoppers with our mezcal. For the park facing the cathedral transformed into
Later shaped by Spanish conquest, the city the curious, they tasted like popcorn, but the a spirited local festival with live local mariachi
still reflects strong colonial influence, from its problem was the legs. They got stuck in our bands and craft fairs. The square burst with local
colorful architecture to enduring traditions— teeth! life under the golden glow of the Cathedral
including the local bullring, where traditional Our newfound friends joined us and we lights; multi-generational families ate ice cream
“fight-to-the-death” bullfights are held twice walked down the quiet streets of San Miguel and cotton candy, strolling Mariachi bands
I Left My Heart a year. to a local salsa club where a five piece Cuban pounded out harmony in full regalia, Mexican
As we wandered through leafy parks and
band was raising the roof. Half the tables
artisans showcased colorful glass, clay and
along narrow sidewalks, we were charmed were occupied, but the dance floor was empty. tinplate treasures, and stray dogs, balloon and
by the abundance of chic rooftop cafés, I’ve never met a dance floor I couldn’t claim, toy peddlers filled in the gaps. A Sunday night
at Cathedral Square will give you the answers to
so we took to it with our American-style salsa
inviting boutiques and vibrant street markets
in San Miguel showcasing local jewelry and crafts. Along the and quickly sparked the room to life. Before why you came and what will draw you back. I left
long, everyone joined in—including gracious
way, we discovered flowering courtyards and
my sentimental heart in this authentic, peaceful,
breezy passageways adorned with glass and locals who kindly indulged us and then colorful and beautiful Mexican community.
hand-hammered steel hearts, which our guide showed us how to truly swivel, sway, and slip
encouraged us to explore. into an authentic, electrifying salsa rhythm.
Although the air is cool and dry, the sun We wandered the three blocks back to our
is intense, so we spent the greater part of the hotel arm in arm, singing the beloved Cuban
afternoon lazing in the garden by the pool folk song “Guantanamera,” and drifted off
with our pool butler who kept the champagne still giggling the refrain until sleep finally
and chili-spiced nuts coming. The boutique claimed us.
size of the Belmond Casa de Sierra Nevada We were woken at 6:00 am to what
made it easy to make new friends. Two sounded like the hotel under siege – the
men celebrating their anniversary poolside ratatat tat of rapid gunfire right outside of our
joined us in conversation and very quickly we courtyard window that drummed us to the
learned that we were one degree of separation core! I ran to the window to see what disaster
from a mutual friend. We laughed and toasted was taking place and called guest services
in the sunshine all afternoon and agreed to in a panic. Calmly and patiently, our host
join them at a local salsa club that night. responded that it was the Sunday celebration
At happy of the Saint of Fireworks, no need for
hour, Stacy concern. Church bells jolted us off the phone
and I dipped and clanged incessantly while fireworks
into the cozy continued through sunrise, shocking us out of
mezcal club for our tequila hangover. Honoring the Saint of
jazz music and Fireworks. Who knew?
tequila. The Following a delightfully indulgent
server picked champagne breakfast, we enrolled in a
a perfect table private art class at Casa de Sierra Nevada
for us near the with famous local heritage artist Hermes
jazz duo and Arroyo. Mr. Arroyo specializes in the rare
we ordered the traditional art form creating Mojigange – the

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